Holy Moley Brewing Co. in Dennison, Ohio, is set to celebrate its third anniversary in January 2024. Founded by Gary McCullough, a former employee of Timken Co., the brewery has transformed a historic church building into a welcoming space for craft beer enthusiasts and wine lovers alike.
McCullough, who spent over 25 years as a home brewer, envisioned this venture as a retirement project. “This is my retirement gig,” he noted, reflecting on the hard work that has gone into establishing the brewery. “I am working way harder than I did.”
The brewery occupies a structure dating back to 1897 that has a rich history. After being used as a hospital, the building was on the market as the former owners sought to reopen it as a church. McCullough recognized its potential immediately, stating, “I knew instantly this was the place.”
Community Support and Unique Offerings
Situated in a village that had previously been dry, Holy Moley had to navigate local regulations to secure permission to sell wine on Sundays. McCullough undertook a house-to-house canvassing campaign to gain community support for his brewery. While a small faction of residents expressed concerns about serving alcohol in a former church, the overall response was positive. “Very little pushback,” McCullough remarked, emphasizing community backing.
The brewery’s name carries a dual significance. The term “Moley” references the symbolic character of moles, while “holy” pays homage to the building’s previous function. The brewery decor features tasteful crosses on the tap handles, maintaining a respectful nod to its heritage.
Inside, the ambiance is enhanced by stained glass windows and a spacious basement, which is now utilized for brewing operations. McCullough employs a two-barrel system that previously belonged to the now-defunct Shale Brewing Co. in North Canton.
Local Impact and Future Plans
Holy Moley Brewing Co. caters to a diverse clientele, drawing in visitors from nearby cities like New Philadelphia, Columbus, Cleveland, and Pittsburgh. Approximately 70 percent of the brewery’s customers come from the local area, creating a lively atmosphere in this quaint Tuscarawas County town.
The brewery currently offers a selection of eight to nine beers, with the top seller being Jerkwater, a Pale Ale designed for those seeking a familiar taste reminiscent of mainstream brands. The term “jerkwater” refers to towns that lacked the infrastructure to thrive, a nod to the area’s historical roots in the rail industry.
In addition to beer, Holy Moley also produces eight to nine wines and offers creative slushies. Looking ahead, McCullough has plans to expand his offerings with the addition of a kitchen, aiming to serve sandwich platters, charcuterie, and gourmet flatbreads by spring. “We don’t want to have pizzas available,” he noted, recognizing the town’s existing pizza culture.
As Dennison considers implementing a Designated Outdoor Refreshment Area (DORA), McCullough sees the potential for increased traffic to the brewery. “I feel like the kitchen will be a slice of that pie, hopefully generate more traffic just because we’ll have food,” he explained.
With a commitment to offering a unique experience, Holy Moley Brewing Co. continues to thrive in Dennison, embodying the spirit of community and craft brewing.
